Measuring/Tension/Increasing&Decreasing/Using Charts
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Measuring a Garment
Most patterns give an allowance for movement or ease over and above the actual bust or chest size. The amount of ease varies with the style of garment and with current fashion. In other words, a pattern may be said ‘to fit’ bust 85 cms [34 ins] with a ‘finished measurement’ of 95 cms [38 ins]. Such a garment has a 10 cm [4 inch] allowance or ease. The photograph on the pattern will show the intended appearance.
If in doubt about which size to make, choose one of your own sweaters of a size in which you feel comfortable, or which is suitable for the style of garment you are to make. Lay the garment out flat on a table and measure the width across the body. Double this measurement to find the finished size all round. Compare this with the finished measurement size printed on the pattern and knit the size that has the nearest finished measurement to the one you want. If the style you are planning to make has a very definite shape, as for example when a garment is intended to fit the figure closely, it is best to follow the ‘to fit’ size in order to get the appearance the designer intended.
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Tension
The correct tension is the most important contribution to the success of the finished garment, so always check it carefully before starting to work. The designer will have worked the instructions out on the basis of a given number of stitches and rows per square inch or centimetre, and it is vital that you achieve exactly the same proportion.
If the tension you achieve is even half a stitch loose or tight, your garment could end up a complete size larger or smaller than either you or the designer intended. It is very important to get the width measurement correct before starting to work. Length measurements can often be adjusted during the course of the work by adjusting the measurements to the underarm or sleeve length, which is frequently given as a measurement, not in rows. Some exceptions are for garments requiring a given number of rows to achieve a particular appearance of the pattern stitch or a fairisle.
Instructions for making a tension piece and how to measure it are given separately for Knitting and Crochet.
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Increasing and Decreasing
The purpose of increasing and decreasing stitches is firstly to make the piece you are working wider or narrower (i.e. to shape it), and secondly to create decorative effects in lacy or textured patterns. When making the different pieces of a garment, increases or decreases are worked in pairs at each end of the row on symmetrical pieces (back, sleeves, etc.) to give a balanced shape. The fronts of cardigans, however, are shaped differently on each side to give the correct shape for the armhole on one side and the neck shaping on the other. Follow the shaping instructions in the pattern carefully. The designer will have worked out the shaping so that the pieces fit together accurately when they are made up. Methods of increasing and decreasing are given separately in the Knitting (increasing, decreasing)and Crochet (increasing, decreasing) sections.
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Using Charts
Fairisle or colour patterns are either written as rows or given as a squared chart, in which case one square usually represents one stitch and one row. When working from a chart, always read the notes on the method of working very carefully. Clear instructions for the direction in which to read the chart, when to twist yarns together and so on are usually given.
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