Yarns
Yarn, the strands of spun fibre that are twisted together into a continuous thread of various thicknesses, can be of animal origin (such as wool, angora, mohair, silk, alpaca), vegetable origin (such as cotton and linen), it can be man-made (such as nylon, acrylic, rayon), or it can be made up of a combination of different fibres. Each single strand of yarn is known as a ply and a number of plys are twisted together to form a yarn. The texture and characteristics of the yarn may be varied by the combination of fibres and by the way in which the yarn is spun. Wool and other natural fibres are often combined with man-made fibres to make a yarn that is more economical and hardwearing than wool or natural fibres alone. Wool can also be treated to make it machine washable. Wool and acrylic are warm and versatile, in that they can be spun in many different weights and types. Orion and nylon are sometimes used in blends, for added strength. The twist of a yarn can be varied too. A tightly twisted yarn is firm and smooth and knits up into a hardwearing fabric, while loosely twisted yarn has a softer finish when it is knitted, though it may be less durable.
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Qualities of knitting or crochet yarn
Yarn is available in various thicknesses, loosely termed ‘plys’. Not all yarns of the same ply are the same thickness, so it can only be a general indication of the weight.
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Baby Yarns
2 ply, 3 ply, 4 ply and double knitting are the usual qualities, but quick knitting and chunky are also produced. Generally baby yarn is an acrylic and nylon mixture, or a soft pure new wool and dyed in traditional pastel colours, although many are now available in bright, modern colours. Yarns made specifically for baby garments are usually machine washable.
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4 Ply
Originally very popular in the forties for lady’s twin-sets with intricate fairisle or lace patterns, 4 ply is suitable for finer weight garments and can be in pure new wool or synthetic fibres.
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Double Knitting
Nowadays this is the most popular thickness of yarn and is available in many different fibres. It is suitable for any type of garment from indoor sleeveless tops to outdoor sporty jackets.
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Aran Knitting
Traditionally used for cable pattern sweaters and cardigans, aran yarn can be in pure new wool or acrylic and wool mixtures. Originally only in cream or natural, aran knitting is now available in a wide range of fashion colours, with patterns for fashion garments as well as the traditional cabled ones.
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Chunky Knitting
This is a thick bulky ‘quick to knit’ quality, suitable for outdoor garments such as jackets and chunky sweaters. Available in pure new wool, synthetics or a mixture of the two, chunky is a suitable yarn for children to use because the stitches are easy to see.
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Choosing Yarns
Yarn is usually sold ready wound in balls of specific weight measured in grams. Very occasionally you will find yarn being sold in a coiled hank or skein, which has to be wound into balls before you start working. Yarn manufacturers (called spinners) wrap each ball with a paper band on which is often printed a great deal of useful information, so it pays to read it carefully. The band states the weight of the yarn and the composition, and sometimes gives instructions for washing and ironing. The ball band also carries the shade number and the dye lot number used for that particular ball. It is important to use yarn of the same dye lot for a single project because different dye lots can vary subtly in shading. You may not notice this when you are comparing two balls of yarn, but the difference will show clearly on the finished knitting, so always buy enough yarn of the same dye lot for the garment you are making. Keep the ball band as a reference. The best way to do this is to pin it to the tension sample (see knitting tension or crochet tension) and keep them together with any leftover yarn, spare buttons or other trimmings. You will then be able to check the washing instructions and also have materials ready for repairs.
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Washing
Hand washing: Always make sure that the washing powder or liquid has completely dissolved in the water and that the temperature is only warm to the hand (no more than 40°C). Squeeze the garment gently rather than rubbing it, and rinse out every trace of washing powder before squeezing out the excess moisture. When using a fabric softener make sure this is well diluted before placing the garment in the rinsing solution. Handknits will benefit from a short spin to remove the water, but support the weight of the garment when transferring it to the spinner to prevent it stretching.
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Machine washing
Check that the ball band recommends machine washing. Always use the ‘delicate’ or ‘wool’ cycle on the machine and do not wash handknits with other garments that may shed contrasting coloured fibres on to them. If in doubt, place the handknit in a clean pillowcase when washing it to prevent it coming in contact with the rest of the wash.
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Drying
Dry handknits flat, away from direct heat or strong sunlight. Some colours can fade or change when left out in harsh sunshine.
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Blocking and Pressing
Before making up a garment, first read the make up instructions carefully and then check the ball band for washing and pressing instructions. Many modern yarns should not be pressed at all. If they are it may result in stretching and discolouration and at best the yarn will lose its ‘bounce’. Individual designs may indicate that pressing is not suitable, even if the ball band states the opposite, and this will be because a raised or embossed stitch pattern will be flattened or spoiled by pressing. So if in doubt, do not press. Blocking out achieves the same effect as pressing without risking valuable work. Omitting ribbing on knitted pieces and with wrong side facing, pin out each piece onto a clean board. Check that the fabric is pinned to the correct size, as stated in the instructions. Soak a hand towel in warm water, wring out the excess water, cover the pieces with the damp hand towel and leave them to dry. If instructions and the ball band indicate that the yarn may be pressed, work as follows:
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Wool, Cotton or Linen
Using a hot iron and a damp cloth, steam each piece thoroughly without allowing the weight of the iron to rest on the work. While the knitting is still damp pin out, then press lightly again and allow to dry.
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Synthetics
Press lightly on wrong side using a warm iron and a dry cloth (avoiding ribbings) except when label states that yarn should not be pressed.
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